Rolling shutter model with a flash of light happening during frame integration.Īn Arduino can serve as a cheap stroboscope for our purpose. So if we flash a light for a very short time in an otherwise dark environment, only the rows that happen to be exposed at that time are going to capture it.įig.
Each row is properly exposed as configured, it’s just that the start of the exposure of a given row is slightly shifted in time relatively to the previous one. The exposure duration is independent from the rolling shutter. Rolling shutter artifacts when imaging a propeller.īut beside the visual distortion, can we quantify how severe the problem is? Let’s find out with a simple blinking LED. Basically the only bright side is that it makes propellers and rotating fans look funny.įig. This is definitely a problem when using these videos for measuring object velocities or for camera synchronization. It follows that the various parts of the resulting video image do not exactly correspond to the same point in time. But if you really need to know that it's going to turn on and stay on, you want to get hardware rated for industrial- not commercial or consumer- environmentals.In a rolling shutter camera (most USB cameras), the image rows are exposed sequentially, from top to bottom. For things which are not mission critical, that's fine. It's consumer hardware, made to sit on your desk at a balmy 20-22 degrees. I would caution against using a standard RPi. I just discovered the 4D Systems displays, they're what MGM Compro sells for aviation usage.
Arduino as timer for strobe light install#
This means you could install the microcontroller somewhere convenient for the sensors and actuators, and then have a trivially small wire which goes to the display.
Since you want a display, I would think about using a microcontroller to aggregate all the sensor data, and then use a single wire to go to the display computer. Plus, if you want to pull the Arduino out you know that the basic requirements for night flight are unaffected. Nothing wrong with using the microcontroller, but it's a lot easier to have things you know you can rely on even when the firmware crashes.
Arduino as timer for strobe light driver#
In comparison, thermocouples require some kind of extremely sensitive ADC or a good voltage amplifier.įor a flashing light placed on a distant wing or tail, unless you thought you would want to program an advanced light flashing behavior, I would forgo a microcontroller, and instead do this at the the LED with a driver and a timer circuit (555 is a popular and dirt cheap one). No specialized circuitry is required for a microcontroller (e.g. They are much cheaper to use, as they provide a temperature-sensitive resistance instead of a thermocouple's weak mV signal. In lieu of thermocouples, I would consider NTC thermistors. do you guys recommend/have experience with? Will the Arduino be able to translate the tach/voltage/amps into displays or does it need a separate sensor? Which Arduino board would work best for this application?ĭo I need to attach a strobe controller to the Arduino, or can I program them in? I need different strobe speeds for the tail beacon & wingtips, can I do this with one controller/board? I can fit a 3.5" or 4" screen on the panel, and it would be nice if I could power the whole thing on with the avionics master switch if possible.Īll that said, these are my main questions:
I only need two EGT sensors, two CHTs, a fuel pressure sensor, & all the electrical protocols to read tach, voltage, & amps. The engine is a Rotax 503 DCDI (Provision 8, Ducati mags), & I'm using an EarthX 680C battery ( Here's the info from EarthX that says this is okay, just in case anyone was wondering). I can manage the coding I think, but I'm struggling to find all compatible parts for what I need & could use some help. Instead of running two controllers (one for the beacon, one for strobes), I'd like to solve two problems with one project by making an Arduino (or Raspberry Pi, if that's smarter) to control the lights as well as display engine sensors. These are pretty basic as I understand them An LED connects to a driver, which runs to a timing controller if needed, powered on & off with a switch. I'm going to build my own LED assemblies for the nav, strobes, and tail beacon on my Ridge Runner, as most of the commercial options are just too expensive or don't fit my project. I do have a basic understanding of most things, and I'll try to make as much sense as I can, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll start this post with a disclaimer: I am not an expert on electronics.
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